Audio out

[andy100]

To get audio out on Tomtom 1000/1005 I can only see only one option. That is using the Tomtom fixed mount, as it has a lineout on the mount itself. Does anyone know any other way of getting audio out ?

 

[Andy_P]

Nope... you're right, that's the only option on those models.
No Bluetooth audio, no FM transmitter, and no line out socket on the device itself (except on the multipin socket).

That's progress for you!

 

[canderson]

At least in the UK you can get SOME sort of mount that provides audio out. Here in N.A., they have refused to sell any of them all the way back to the 740 models. No idea why.

If it hadn't been for Mike A being willing to send me one to play with, I still would have no audio out here.

 

[dimblum]

The TomTom mounts sold by ProClipUSA include the 'Line Out' port on the back

Not sure why TomTom chose to exclude the port on the North American mounts??

 

[Andy_P]

The TomTom mounts sold by ProClipUSA include the 'Line Out' port on the back

That's useful to know :thumb:

Not sure why TomTom chose to exclude the port on the North American mounts??

There isn't an audio out on the standard mount supplied in Europe either.

It's just that in Europe, we can pay an extortionate amount to buy an alternative mount that does have it.
And it's that version that isn't for sale in the US.

 

[canderson]

The TomTom mounts sold by ProClipUSA include the 'Line Out' port on the back

Devices like this -> TomTom GO 740 LIVE - TomTom Active Dock Holder with Tilt Swivel*-*ProClip Car Mounts for Mobile Phones, GPS, and Handheld Devices are TomTom devices being imported from Europe by ProClip, not manufactured by them, and were not available when I purchased my 740 Live. That's why I had to beg one from the U.K. At least there's a source for them here now, even if 'gray market'.

There are a number of 'peripherals' that appear in the UK/Europe market that never see this side of the Atlantic, but docks have been one of the biggest issues.

 

[mikealder]

If you want a windscreen mount with audio output its quite a simple job to swap the rear portion of the mounts accross from one to the other, of cource this does involve purchasing the mount with the extra socket then ripping them both to bits! - Shouldn't take more than ten minutes in total though - Mike

 

[andy100]

Mike, how sure are you that I can swap round the back of these mounts. Before buying best to be sure. Thank you.

 

[mikealder]

Mike, how sure are you that I can swap round the back of these mounts.

100% its a simple job that requires the removal of two Torx head screws from the rear of the mounting shoe, take the two halves of the shoe to bits then release four phillips head screws that are inside the shoe to release the rear portion on the mount.

I have some pictures showing how to do this somewhere on the PC, when I find them I will add them to this thread - Mike

 

[andy100]

thanks for your help.

 

[mikealder]

This might help a bit when taking the mounts to bits, I was converting a windscreen mount to Pro-Clip dash mount but the same principles apply for taking it to bits/ rebuilding - Mike

Having found the pictures this should give you an idea as to how I swapped from a Windscreen mount to a very secure and stable dash vent mount using Brodit/ Pro-Clip parts along with bits from the mount supplied with the Go-1000/ 2505.

First of all I have screwed the Brodit "Ball" part number 533091 to a Pro-Clip to suit my car:



Remove the two Torx head screws in the rear of the mounting shoe





Apply pressure to the joint between the two parts of the shoe using your thumb nail to spring the two halves apart



The front face of the mounting show can now be removed along with the magnet



Next release the four cross head/ Phillips head screws to release the rear of the shoe from the windscreen sucker.



Remove the plastic translucent ball cup from around the ball, it should simply pull out.





Pull the retaining collar from the ball, this takes a bit of force but not too much as there is nothing actually securing it other than being a tight fit.



Now we switch attention to the Pro-Clip and ball, fitting the collar and translucent cap in to place.



Firstly the collar is pushed over the ball.



Next fit the translucent cap



Make sure this is fully seated as there is only one position this can be placed into, a small hole lets a small part of black plastic protrude through the cap at the 12 o'clock and six o'clock positions as shown.



Re-fit the shoe to the collar by securing the four Phillips head screws, its not a bad idea to secure these screws with thread lock to stop them working loose, the screws need to be secure as these provide the friction to prevent the mount from moving under gravity when driving (Droopy mount if screws aren't tight)



Pop the magnet back into position in the slot on the front portion of the mounting shoe.



Snap the front portion of the mounting shoe back in to place and resecure the two Torx head screws in the rear of the mounting shoe.



The modified mount in the car, note the power cable dives through the airvent to a ciggy lighter socket hidden behind the dash providing for a no wires, neat installation.



Finally the unit sat in place:



Hope that helps - Mike

 

[andy100]

Thanks. Here it looks like you are showing using a clip mount. To make sure, can I use the window mount together with the lineout ?

 

[mikealder]

can I use the window mount together with the lineout ?

Yes you can, I posted the pictures to give you an idea how to take them to bits, once both mounts are in bits rebuild them with the windscreen sucker attached to the accessory mount with the line out - Mike